Lobuche West Peak Climbing

The Lobuche Mountain consists of two different summits, viz. East and West with heights of 6,119 m and 6,145 m respectively. A continuous ridge connects them but there is still a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them. The East Peak is recognised as a trekking peak, whereas the West is known as an Expedition Peak.

Lobuche being an attractive mountain offers various existing routes and also a potential for new ones. The dark triangle of its rocky East face rises over the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to a spectacular skyline, forming the south ridge.

The peak of Lobuche East is reached by descending a marked notch and climbing steep snowy slopes to the top. On most occasions, the mountain is climbed on the summit ridge only as far as a subsidiary snow summit, south?east of the true peak and before the notch. This peak is identified as the false peak. Laurence Nielson and Ang Gyalzen Sherpa made the first ascent to Lobuche East on 25 April 1984 although there are possibilities that others have reached the summit before. But no records are available.

Itinerary Day by Day Program

Day 01: Kathmandu Airport - hotel transfer.

Day 02: Kathmandu Sightseeing.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2850 m) 3-hour walk to Phakding (2600 m).

Day 04: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3440 m) 5h. Tough climb towards the Sherpa capital. Beautiful vistas of the Thamserku (6608 m), the Everest (8848 m) and the Lhotse (8511 m).

Day 05: Namche Bazar. Acclimatisation day.

Day 06: Namche Bazar - Phortse Thanga (3600 m) Beautiful view of the Tengpoche monastery.

Day 07: Phortse Thanga - Dole (4040 m) - Machhermo (4410 m).

Day 08: Machhermo - Gokyo (4750 m) We follow the immense frontal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier to the Gokyo lakes. Climbing up we will discover one by one those emerald drops lost into black rocks and snow.

Day 09: Gokyo Peak ascent (5480 m) A breathtaking 360 ยบ view with Lhotse, Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, four of the forteen 8000 m on earth, dominating the myriad lesser peaks.

Day 10: Gokyo - Nyimagawa (5050 m) Crossing through moraines of the terminal spit of Ngojumpa glacier. From Thagna, climb up through gentle and grassy slopes to the foot of the Cho La.

Day 11: Nyimagawa - Cho La Pass (5420 m) - Dzongla (4840 m). The steep trail goes through blocks of rocks. After the pass, we shortly cross an easy segment of the glacier then descend towards Dzongla.

Day 12: Dzongla - Base Camp (5350 m) From the Base Camp, situated beside a lake, we can enjoy stunning vistas of the Ama Dablam and the Taweche.

Day 13: Base Camp - High Camp (5850 m). Through snowy slopes, we step onto a ridge overhanging the Khumbu and Lobuche glaciers. Setting up fixed ropes is sometimes necessary (slopes with a gradient about 45 to 50 degrees).

Day 14: Lobuche Peak ascent (6119 m) and backwards to High Camp. Steady progress on the final ridge towards the summit, we can come across few crevasses.

Day 15: High Camp - Pheriche (4250 m).

Day 16: Pheriche - Tengpoche (3860 m). The largest and most active monastery of Khumbu is located at Tengpoche.

Day 17: Tengpoche - Phunki ( 3250 m) - Namche Bazar(3440 m).

Day 18: Namche Bazar - Lukla.

Day 19: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.

Day 20: Kathmandu. Day at leisure.

Day 21: Departure.

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